}PNX1000}

	

 
N.O.A.H.

	 
5665 MYERS ROAD

	 
AKRON, OH 44319

	""  
be  responsible for the results of any modification not  done  by 
N.O.A.H..

ESD CAUTION--This equipment is static sensitive and can be easily 
destroyed.  If you do not know what you are doing, please take it 
to  someone who can help you.  Failure on an electronics  project 
such as this can be traced to ESD damage in 75% of all instances.

The  720K conversion kit is supplied with out warranty.  This  is 
due  to  the fact that we at N.O.A.H. have no  control  over  the 
quality of work that is performed by the customer, nor do we have 
any way of knowing the condition of the drive prior to  modifica
tion.   We will replace for 30 days, any part supplied with  this 
kit  that fails do to defect in materials or  workmanship.   This 
includes the SYSTEM EPROM and the 1.1K resistor.  In order to  be 
able to return any part, it must be in the same condition as when 
received by you.

PARTS SUPPLIED

1ea.       2732 SYSTEM EPROM
1ea.       1.0K resistor
1ea.       5 feet 30 gauge wire

You  will  need to buy a 3.5" drive assembly.  We  recommend  the 
Toshiba  or TEAC 3.5" 720K drive.  You will find them  advertised 
as "PC XT" compatible.  Do not buy an "AT Compatible Drive".   If 
you get the Toshiba or TEAC, it will come with a universal mount
ing kit.  Please follow the instructions with the kit to assemble 
the drive.  

Next, connect a piece of 30 gauge wire to the pin on the external 
PC  board   nearest to pin 34 on the card edge. (where  you  will 
connect  the 34 pin ribbon connector).  Attach the other  to  the 
disk present switch on the disk drive (nearest the outside of the 
drive  if you are using the TEAC drive).  this will require  that 
you  solder the wire to the switch which will probably void  your 
warranty  on the drive mechanics).  The wire is connected to  the 
inside pin of the switch.  ( the switch is also the write protect 
switch,  so  it should be easy to locate)  This  section  applies 
only  to  the Toshiba or TEAC drives.  We do not know  how  other 
drives  implement  the disk present signal and you will  have  to 
experiment  to get that portion to work.  Tighten all the  screws 
and  lay  the drive assembly aside until you  have  modified  the 
controller board.  o73 

To   accomplish  this  mod,  remove  the  drive   from   service.  
Disassemble  the drive by removing the top and 2  bottom  covers.  
Then remove the 2 sheet metal screws that hold the front panel on 
and lay aside all the plastic parts for later re-assembly.  Next, 
remove  the  MPI  drive  section from  the  drive.   Do  this  by 
disconnecting  the  34  conductor ribbon  cable  from  the  drive 
assembly,  disconnect the power connector, the green wire  behind 
the ribbon cable and the sensor connector.

Lay the drive assembly just removed aside.  Now, remove the power 
connector for the drive controller board.  Clip the blue wire  at 
both  connector  ends.  

Remove the the controller board from the frame assembly.  Using a 
vice, crush the 4 indented areas of the frame where the screws to 
secure the drive mechanics are inserted.  This should be  crushed 
until it is flat.

Now,  turn the controller board over and drill 2 1/32nd holes  in 
the area just to the left of U14.  Space them so that you do  not 
drill  through any traces.  Hot glue the 1.1K resistor  in  place 
with  the  leads through the holes you just  drilled.   Solder  a 
piece  of 30 gauge wire to one end of the resistor and the  other 
end  of  the wire to the land where pin 7 of U14  is.   Solder  a 
piece of wire to pin 34 of P5.  next strip a section of the  wire 
in  the  middle  and wrap the bare wire  around  the  unconnected 
resistor  end.   Solder in place.  Now run the loose end  of  the 
wire to pin 9 on U2.  Next connect a piece of wire to pin 8 of U2 
and  connect  it to pin 2 of P4.  This portion of the mod  is  to 
provide  a  low  signal to the Coleco drive when a  disk  is  not 
installed  in  the  drive.  This section is  based  on  the  disk 
present switch in the Toshiba drive.  Other drives may not have a 
switch  and will require that you add one.  The key is make  sure 
that  you apply a low to pin 2 of P4 when there is not a disk  in 
the drive.

Now  connect  a section of wire from P5 pin 32 to pin  8  of  U3.  
Next  connect a section of 30 gauge wire from U3 pins 9 an 10  to 
U6 pin 17.  

Reinstall  the  controller  board  in  modified  frame  assembly.  
Remove  the  system  EPROM (U10) and replace  with  the  provided 
system  EPROM.   Now,  install  the  previously  modified   power 
connector.

When you install the new drive, it may be necessary to procure  a 
longer  34 conductor ribbon cable.  Parts for this are  available 
at  you local Radio Shack.  This was not provided as we  have  no 
way of knowing what you will need.

You are now ready to install the drive mechanics.  Place them  in 
the  frame  and  connect the 34 pin ribbon cable  and  the  power 
connector.  (note that the power connector is keyed to go in only 
1  way).  Install the 4 screws removed earlier through  the  side  o73 
tabs  and  tighten  gently.   The drive is  now  ready  to  test.  
Connect it as the first (and only) drive to the computer.   Power 
up  the  system  and  put in  the  disc  marked  EOS/CP/M  FORMAT 
UTILITIES.   Pull  reset  and  you  should  see  a  color  screen 
announcing that the format utilities are being loaded.  When  the 
system  turns control to you, install an unformatted disk in  the 
drive  and  follow the documentation for the format.   The  drive 
should  format  the disk through block 719.  You  can  then  load 
basic  and  check  the  new disk for blocks  left  (you  will  be 
surprised at the space).  

Next,  boot  CP/M and run the file ABP25.COM from  the  utilities 
disk.  Use the documentation from the disk to show you how to use 
it.   Next,  use the CFM.COM or FORMAT13.COM to format  a  double 
sided  CP/M disk.  When you do a STAT on the new drive  with  the 
double  sided  disk  installed, you should get  about  702K  free 
space.   You  should not copy at least 400K of files to  the  new 
drive.   In  about 25% of all conversions that I have  done,  the 
controller will not cause a side switch.  This has, in all  cases 
been  caused  by the 6803 being bad.  They can be  obtained  from 
most  electronics supply stores (not Radio Shack).  You can  tell 
you have a problem when it gets to about 370K or so and you  will 
get  an  I/O error caused by the drive not  switching  sides  and 
trashing  the  directory  on the first side as it  thinks  it  is 
writing to thesecond side.

IN CASE OF TROUBLE
Check  all  you  work very carefully.  If you can  not  find  the 
problem,  you  can  return  the drive along  with  45.00  +  8.80 
shipping  to N.O.A.H. for correction.  If you have damaged  the 
controller  board, or there is evidence that improper  procedures 
were  used,  we will bill you at the rate of 25.00 per  hour  for 
repairs.  (Not to exceed 100.00 for labor) + cost of parts.   The 
drive  mechanics  will be replace free if it is  determined  that 
they have a defect in materials or workmanship (these were tested 
by FUJITSU and by N.O.A.H. prior to your receiving them).

Please  call for a RETURN AUTHORIZATION NUMBER.  Do not ship  the 
drive without this number as we will not accept it.

                            U2-9  !\ U2-8
P4-2             !----------------! ---------------*P5-34
                 !                !/
*-----------------/\/\/\/\/-!
                  1.0K      !
                            !
                           \/


Added drive information.

ADDED INFO:  Make sure that you locate the address jumpers on the 
disk  drive that you have purchased and change the drive  address 
to D0.  Most all drives are shipped jumpered for D1 which is  the 
IBM and CLONE default setting. o)3 

                            